Areas 1-3

For this area park as for rotherslade and walk east on the coastal path, the paths leading of to the bouldering areas have been marked with red dots, the problems that follow are just a selection of what i think are the best in each area.

Area 1

Line 1 V3, Sit start with both hands matched on small edge throw left to rounded knoble then take the wall direct via a triangular sloper.

Line 2 V2, start as for line 1, follow the arete and finish up the blocks above, the starts and grades to these problems depend on the stone level.

Left arete V3, sit start and take the arete direct easier with a heel hook out left.

Right arete,sit start for a fridge hugging V3.

Cave line 1 V3, sit/hanging start depending on stone level, this takes the obvious rising traverse line to the left.

Cave line 2 V4, start as for problem 1 but go straight up taking most direct line through the roof.

These are the most obvious lines but there are also good eliminates to be had.

Gulley line 1 V3, start hanging on the far right of the slopey ledge, traverse left, slap up to slopey holds then again to finish on the ledge above.

Gulley line 2 V3, start as for line 1 but keep traversing left, finish as far left as possible.

Line 1 V2, use small edges and balancy moves to gain a flat block followed by the top.

Line 2 V2, the arete direct.

Area 2

I have not listed any problems for this area but there are problems to be found.

Area 3

Take the same exit of the main path as for rams tor crag, i have only listed 1 problem for this area but there are more to be found in the gulley under the main face of the crag, but this area suffers from severe run off from the high tides.

Undercut eliminate V3/V4 harder for short people,

without using the arete on the left use undercut and

small holds on face to gain good crimp half way up

slab above, finish direct.

Areas 4-8

This area is reachable from either rotherslade or limeslade.

Area 4

This area is quite easy to find and can be seen from parts of the footpath or if you look east from the top of rams tor crag.

Line 1 V2, sit start under roof gain two small holds near lip from these throw to flat jug on face above or perhaps a long reach for the tall.

Line 2 V3, start as for line 1 but traverse right below the lip, finish up the groove above.

Line 3 V4, sit start as low as possible with both hands on sidepull brake, gain flat hold on corner of face then take a low traverse line leftwards finishing as far left as possible.

Quantum physics V6/7 FA chris allen, sit start under the roof to the far right, traverse leftwards under roof then use cunning footwork followed by a series of crimps and pinches and a long reach to gain slopey ledges above, finish direct.

Nexus project, this breaks out to the left via a small pocket and takes on the blank slab.

Area 5

Thumb thing V4 FA chris allen, sit start at base of groove line, use small holds in groove to gain thumb slot, from here take on the bulge, finish at the horozontal brake above, or top out for the highball finish.

V3 traverse, sit start as far right under the roof as possible, using pockets in roof traverse left, pull out from under the roof and take on face on the left, finish at the high pocket on the far left.

Area 6

This area is a small cove with high steep walls and a pile of boulders at the back which can be found by walking east along the reef at low tide from area 5 about 100 meters, i have not listed any problems for this area but there are good things to be found.

Area 7

V4 traverse, a low hanging start at the far left, traverse right using small crimps

and pockets, finish in the far right corner.

Area 8/limeslade point

Line 1 V2, traverse leftwards rising crack line.

Line 2 razor V5, without using vertical crack line use small slopey edges

to gain small sharp crimps at about half height, throw for the top from here.

3 Bolo V3 FA geraint james, sit start on the arete, reach out left for a sharp crimp

on the face, throw for the top from here.

Words by Chris Allen and photos Geraint James.